Alex Honnold gets seasick. That’s cute.
He’s not single either, ladies.
Age: 20 (I turn 21 in about three weeks)
Location: Dallas, Texas
Types of climbing you do: Bouldering is my main focus, but I also top rope every now and then. I will be moving into lead heavily after the winter. I’m making a trip to Horseshoe Canyon Ranch over Thanksgiving and another trip to Heuco Tanks for two weeks during winter break, so I’m focusing heavily on bouldering until then.
How often do you climb: I climb a minimum of three times a week in the gym for about 4-5 hours. I try to go about 4 times a week. Rest days are just as important as gym sessions. I’ve only climbed outdoors once and it was at Roger’s Park at Lake Belton in Texas.
Home crag(s): Within reasonable driving distance, there’s Roger’s Park, Eisenhower State Park, The Greenbelt in Austin, Reimer’s Ranch, Lake Travis and Lake Whiteney for deep water free soloing, and the nine hour drive to Hueco. There’s probably a million other spots in Texas, but those are the first that come to mind.
Favorite crag(s): Not enough experience to really say… I know I’m going to absolutely die when I touch the rock out in El Paso though.
Where you’d love to go rock climbing: Hueco Tanks, The Buttermilks, HP40, Bishop, HCR, RRG, THE ROCKLANDS, The Font, etc.
Home gym: Dallas Rocks (where I climb/train), Exposure (where Team Texas, ranked #1 in the country trains), Summit, and Canyons
Rating you climb at (V_, 5._): V6/V7, 5.11+/5.12- (probably stronger than that by now)
Hardest onsight (V_, 5._): V6, 5.11+ (really not sure. I haven’t rope climbed in a good long while)
Hardest send (V_, 5._): V7, 5.12-
Favorite route and where: Haven’t done any rope climbing outdoors.
Favorite problem and where: Favorite that I have climbed/worked on— “Zen” (V5) at Roger’s Park in Texas.
Got any projects? “Zen” V5 and “Zen and Tao” V6 at Roger’s Park
Shoes you wear: La Sportiva Solutions. I’d love to get my feet in some Miura VS’s, Testarossas, Futuras, as well as some FiveTen Dragons. If only I had money… hahaha
Favorite gear companies: Petzl, Arcteryx, meh… don’t really own much gear. I’d love to get some jumbo pads for bouldering though.
Favorite climbing clothes companies: Verve. I REALLY want some verve pants and/or knickers. For my 21st would be sweet.
Any sponsors? LOL. No.
Do you compete? I compete in the collegiate series for my school UT Dallas.
Been to nationals? Nope.
Favorite comps: I climbed in a comp at UNT that was a ton of fun.
Favorite comp moment: Onsighting a really cool slab route.
Interesting experiences: Climbing with kids on the Southern Rocks team as well as Brian Antheunisse of Team Texas (now coach). They’re all so phenomenal and encouraging. Watching BA do his thing is a whole different world of climbing that I can only dream of being a part of. I’ve also run into Carlo Traversi and Alex Puccio while climbing at my home gym. Puccio’s younger brother trains and climbs on the team at my gym and her mother is the coach of the youth team.
Any bad climbing injuries: Sprained ankle. I rolled it after taking a bad fall onto the shitty mats at Dallas Rocks. Put me out of the game for about a month.
Perfect pre-climbing food: Still figuring this one out. Usually it helps if I’ve had a decent sized meal several hours before climbing and then if I take in some carbs for some quick burning energy before climbing.
Favorite jams to climb to: I don’t really climb to music all that often. I really enjoy it when my gym puts on Led Zeppelin though (half the reason I go there :P).
Do you train at all? I’ve recently started training. I ran a pyramid workout on Monday but only had time to do half of it. I also sometimes do 4X4s, 4X4s with lockoffs, Trisets, Ab routines, etc. Mainly I just climb though and project and push my limit. As of right now I’m breaking down the barrier between V6 and V7. Usually after 4 hours of climbing I’ll try to campus some low grade stuff before I go home. I’ve successfully campused V4. But usually I campus V0-V2.
Favorite climbing movies: Progression, Reel Rock Tour 2010 & 2011, King Lines, and the First Ascent series.
Anything else? Climbing is my absolute favorite hobby and pastime. Not only is it physically demanding, but it also requires creativity, body awareness, flexibility, and most importantly—a good mental game. Staying positive and always trying hard are the two most important things in climbing I would say and they translate to daily life quite well for me. Climbing is not only a sport or a hobby, but it really makes me feel like a better person. My day is always brightened up when I get to go climb and see what I can get my body to do. I feel like I’m always just one more hard attempt away from breaking new ground and that feels awesome. I know I have the strength to send V7 and I know I can develop the strength to get me all the way to sending double digits outdoors one day. Not only is it personally a great thing, but the climbing community is also one of the coolest I’ve found. Everyone is so relaxed and open with one another. People just want to hang out, talk, try some hard ass problems, and encourage each other to break through their projects. I love that climbing promotes a lifestyle outdoors and encourages travel. Just the whole package of a climber’s lifestyle appeals to me in every way. LET’S GO FIND ADVENTURE! :D
Beat to hell
I have spent six of the last seven days climbing hard in the gym. I need a rest day BADLY. Work hard, rest harder (: can’t wait to go in soon to send some more stuff. I also bought some webbing today to start doing some distal phalanx lifts (courtesy of finding-elysium) to improve my finger/tendon strength. I’m stoked!
There are five V6 projects I have now. One of them is a fucking marathon. Straight up 22 moves traversing the entire wall. It’s gonna go down though. I have all the moves, just gotta link it up when I’m fresh. I also have two V7 projects. I am literally one move away from my first V7 and I only got my first V6 days ago. The last move on it is super desperate though because it requires this shit toe-hook around an arete coming off of a good crimp rail. Basically the last move is a scary throw to the tape finish that either ends in some serious superman horizontal swing or in a sketchy fall. I’m cruising the rest of it though and that feels fucking good. There’s also this really slope-ey campus-ey V7 that I’ve got pretty dialed. Just working out the last couple moves. I really want to get the send in on these two things. Either way, I’m training hard and I’m definitely loving to see this progression.
On a side note, crossfit pull-ups may be efficient, but I still don’t like them at all. I’d rather do 40 straight pull-ups with locked out arms than 100 the crossfit way. Gotta get that power endurance!
Climbing for at least four hours tomorrow
Hopefully gonna send that V7 I love soo much. A really powerful V5 on the roof as well. Tomorrow is a day for sending. (: